Everyone Loves Prosecco. So Why Can’t They Remember Its Name? Part 2

This is the second half of Michael Goldstein’s conversation with James Hunt. In Part 1, James asked about Miami, the giants on the shelf and why Bella Principessa needs butterflies. Now he wants to know where it all began.

All right, we’ve admired the butterflies and redesigned the website. What about the wine?

Michael I’m glad you finally asked.

Because you can have the most beautiful bottle in the world, but if what’s inside isn’t any good, you’ve got a very expensive vase.

James We’ve established that. What makes the wine different?

Michael Balance.

We deliberately chose Brut rather than Extra Dry.

Which is one of the great absurdities of wine terminology. Extra Dry is actually sweeter than Brut.

James Naturally. Makes perfect sense.

Michael Quite.

People sometimes assume the drier a wine is, the better it must be.

And there are some wonderful very dry wines.

But we wanted Bella Principessa to have a particular balance.

Crisp and refreshing, with enough softness to complement the acidity and the apple, pear and floral characteristics.

James You’re telling me a little sweetness makes that much difference?

Michael I’m saying the relationship between sweetness, acidity and flavour matters.

You don’t drink a laboratory report.

You drink what’s in the glass.

I’m not trying to win a competition for making the driest wine.

I want people to enjoy it.

And want it again.

James Judging by the bottles on the table, you’ve tested that theory.

Michael Research, James. Thorough research.

Where did your interest in Prosecco itself begin?

Michael One of the moments that stayed with me was sitting at the Hotel Excelsior on Venice’s Lido.

A wonderfully glamorous setting. The service, the surroundings, the atmosphere. La dolce vita.

And I remember enjoying a glass of Prosecco.

Not Champagne. Prosecco.

What struck me was how proudly it was served.

There was no sense it was a compromise.

It belonged.

I’d noticed that travelling around Italy, in Venice, Milan, Rome and smaller towns.

People enjoying Prosecco for what it was.

Yet in Britain, and sometimes America, I’d seen it sold as the cheap alternative to Champagne.

That never sat right with me.

Just because something costs less doesn’t mean it’s worth less.

James And you thought the bottle could look better?

Michael The wine was lovely. The bottle wasn’t particularly memorable.

Given my rather unhealthy interest in packaging, that caught my attention.

You’ve also met some interesting people in the wine business.

Michael Very much so.

One person I was particularly pleased to meet was Enore Ceola.

He’s one of the people who helped establish Mionetto and Prosecco in the American market.²

An extraordinary character. Energetic, sharp, and someone who understood the consumer long before the category became as familiar as it is today.

I had the pleasure of visiting him at the Mionetto winery in Valdobbiadene and talking about what we’re working on with Bella Principessa.

James So you went to see one of the pioneers of the category and showed him your competition?

Michael When you put it like that…

But why wouldn’t I?

He’s achieved something remarkable. You’d be foolish not to learn from somebody like that.

Champagne is often associated with special occasions. Something to save for the right moment.

Prosecco can be part of ordinary life.

A beautiful hotel in Venice or an evening with friends.

You don’t need an excuse.

I came away from meeting Enore with enormous respect for what he’s achieved and the thinking behind it.

There’s an enormous difference between admiring somebody’s work and trying to imitate it.

And Italy has given you some important friendships outside the wine business too.

Michael Absolutely.

One person I often think about is Fabio Gazzabin.

Fabio was enormously generous with his time, his friendships and his knowledge.

He helped me discover a side of Venice and Veneto I wouldn’t have known otherwise.

Sadly, we lost him in 2022.

I wrote a tribute to him because there are people who quietly change the way you see a place.

For me, Fabio was one of those people.

Let’s talk about America. You’re up against some rather large businesses.

Michael Oh, enormous.

Take La Marca.

It has genuine Italian cooperative roots, with thousands of growers in Veneto.

But in America, it has the commercial strength of Gallo behind it.

An extraordinary portfolio, enormous relationships across the market, substantial resources.

Gallo’s the 800-pound gorilla.

And I mean that respectfully.

James Whereas you’re the mouse in the corner.

Michael I was hoping for something slightly more flattering.

James David and Goliath, then?

Michael I suppose. Although David had the advantage of knowing exactly where to aim.

We’re still trying to get an appointment.

James So what do you actually spend your days doing?

Michael Talking to people.

People think I’m in the wine business. Half the time I think I’m in the people business.

Distributors, buyers, retailers, restaurants, hotel groups. Everybody has their priorities.

And you have to understand what’s important to them.

Sometimes you’re shaking hands, sometimes you’re kissing babies, and occasionally you’re eating a considerable amount of humble pie.

James And kissing frogs?

Michael A few. Although I’ve yet to find one that turned into a distributor.

James But surely a company like Gallo can get a product onto shelves far more easily than you can.

Michael They have a tremendous advantage in resources, relationships and experience.

We’re not going to outspend them. That would be ridiculous.

We have to think differently.

Pay attention to the details. Build relationships. Be selective about where we go and why.

Make something distinctive enough that people notice.

And then give them a reason to come back.

It’s not easy. It takes time, capital and patience.

But there’s a difference between being smaller and being irrelevant.

The woman standing in front of a wine shelf doesn’t necessarily know how many salespeople work for the company behind each bottle.

“But there’s a difference between being smaller and being irrelevant.”

She sees the bottles.

And that’s a moment where we have an opportunity to compete.

James Assuming she picks yours up.

Michael Exactly.

That’s why we’ve spent so much time on it.

So you want to become the next La Marca?

Michael No. I want Bella Principessa to become Bella Principessa.

La Marca and Mionetto have demonstrated what’s possible.

But we aren’t trying to become a slightly different version of somebody else.

We want a distinctive identity, a wine people enjoy, and customers who remember us.

The market is large enough that you don’t need everybody.

You need enough people who genuinely want what you’re offering.

And how will you know it’s working?

Michael When somebody walks into a shop and asks for Bella Principessa by name.

Not because it’s on promotion.

Not because it’s the cheapest bottle.

Because they’ve tried it, enjoyed it and remembered it.

James So it isn’t really about the butterflies?

Michael The butterflies help people notice.

The wine gives them a reason to come back.

And the brand gives them something to remember.

James How long will that take?

“The butterflies help people notice. The wine gives them a reason to come back. And the brand gives them something to remember.”

Michael Longer than I’d like. Hopefully less than you think.

James Another glass while we wait?

Michael Now there’s a decision that requires absolutely no market research.

Prosecco by the Numbers

For anyone who prefers their bubbles with a spreadsheet, here’s what the business actually looks like.

To become the Prosecco people remember. And the one they ask for.

Discover Bella Principessa

Bella Principessa offers Prosecco DOC Brut and Prosecco DOC Rosé Brut, produced in northeastern Italy and presented in distinctive ceramic-painted floral bottles.

Explore Bella Principessa Gold and RoséFind Bella Principessa near youBuy Bella Principessa online

Beyond the Bottle

Michael Goldstein works across creative direction, branding and design.

• Michael Goldstein: Evolution of the Brand →